Biang Biang Mian / Supercalifragilisticexpialidocious Noodles (Tourism Series)

Tourism part 1: On embracing complexity [all in series]

About Tourism, the series

Engraved into a sizable hunk of Labrador granite, on a pedestal in the executive anteroom at the Beijing Sounds Studios:

Tourist, n. One who favors packaged over live, who inches squeamishly past the teeming fauna of his own backyard — with its outrageous comedies, its epic contests, its tawdry intrigues — in order to reach the specimen cabinet at his neighbor’s place.

It’s not a promising mindset with which to start the summer travel season. Yet that’s exactly what July and August 2009 brought to the Beijing Studios staff: tourism of the first degree…

  • in Shanghai and Nanjing: a tagalong (follow-the-spouse type) business trip with a steady diet of meandering street-walking and cold-hotel-pool swimming
  • in Xi’an and surrounding Shaanxi² province, the Forbidden City, and the Great Wall: excursions with Grandfather and Grandmother Beijing Sounds visiting China for the first time

This series, then, takes the optimistic and contrarian view that there might, in fact — counter to all past experience, deeply-held biases, and scientifically-derived hypotheses — be some reason to haul the microphone outside the boundaries* of this fine capital city and open up one’s ears to the sounds beyond.

Reason #1: Biang biang miàn

The young syz was a bit of a spelling and grammar fascist, quite unlike the huckster of namby-pamby descriptive linguistics that you find running the Beijing Sounds Studios today. There’s something soothingly absolute about spelling, just as there is about hanzi-writing: it’s right, or it’s wrong (or so you think before you have the misfortune of experience). And also not unlike hanzi-learning for Chinese, spelling acquisition for previously unknown English words can go on forever, providing endless titillation for the binary mind.

Granted, English spelling has some limitations that hanzi does not. For one, it has an absolute prohibition against the invention of new letters, a cranky and artificial barrier that users of hanzi thankfully do not have to deal with. Even the esteemed Dr. Seuss was not able to overthrow this capricious, reactionary, antidisestablishmentarian regime.

English spelling also provides some vague circumscription regarding the sounds that a particular letter is allowed to represent. C, for example, can only be /k/ or /s/ (or occasionally /sh/, or, with some coercion from American tongues, /zh/, or, for aficionados, even /th/ if it’s a foreign borrowing from Spain-Spanish and you’re trying to sound international). Moreover, it serves up an /s/ only if followed by “i” or “e”, unless you’re associated with an emperor.

Hanzi supporters have tried to argue that this anti-proletarian rule does not apply to their party at all. They claim, to paraphrase Humpty Dumpty: “when I use a character it makes whatever sound I choose it to make, neither more nor less”. But in practice they are quite wrong. Hanzi, too, are limited in the sounds they are allowed to represent. The following elegant system of pronunciation rules applies in roughly the order given, with some recombination just to keep it spicy:


Hanzi Pronunciation Rules**
6 The hanzi represents the sound of the phonetic component of the character
5 The hanzi represents the sound of the phonetic component of the character, but with some tone other than the one you’ve guessed
4 The hanzi represents the sound of the phonetic component of the character, but with a different initial consonant than the one you’ve guessed
3 The hanzi represents the sound of the phonetic component of the character, but the phonetic component is not the one you guessed
2 The hanzi represents the sound of the phonetic component of the character, but it’s using the other sound that the phonetic component made back in 684BC
1 The hanzi represents precisely the sound — and meaning — used by its creator (which of course is what allows readers of modern Mandarin to readily partake of wisdom from ancient texts) factoring in 500-2000+ years of phonetic, semantic and cultural change

-

In short, there are limitations on hanzi pronunciation just as there are with English letters. But endless permutation and spawning? Both systems offer this in spades: English with letters, and Hanzi with character components. Thus in the same way some Puldyer Legg comes up with supercalifragilisticexpialidocious, some Dòu Nǐwánr (窦你玩) comes up with…

biangbiangmian

[As is now usual, the transcript below is available on this page with audio synchronized to text. UPDATE: Thanks QPH for corrections to transcript]

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YU Biāngbiāng miàn Biang biang 面 Biang biang noodles
SYZ Shénme? 什么? What?
PBS Biàng biang miàn! Biang biang 面! Biang biang noodles!
YU Tā chá zhèi zì ne! 他查这字呢! He’s looking up this character!
LY Méiyǒu zhèi zì. 没有这字。 This character’s not in there.
SYZ Méiyǒu zhèi zì? 没有这字? Not in there?
LY Mèiyǒu zhèi zì. Zhèi yígè zì shì yī, èr, sān, sì, wǔ, liù — wǔgè zì — shì jǐgè zì zǔchéng de. 没有这字。这一个字是一,二,三,四,五,六——五个字——是几个字组成的。 It’s not in there. This one character is made up of one, two, three, four, five, six — five characters — it’s made up of several characters.
Tā zhèr — Shǎnxīrén zào de zì, cídiǎn shang méiyǒu. 它这儿——陕西人造的字,辞典上没有。 It’s here — Shaanxi people made up this character; it’s not in the dictionary.
SYZ Shì ma? Nà — nà wǒ qù zhàoxiàng le. 是吗?那——那我去照相了。 Really? Then — then I’ll go take a picture.
LY Zhàoxiàng 照相 Okay.¹
YU Nǐ qù zhàoxiàng ba. 你去照相吧。 Go ahead.¹
SYZ Nà zhèige jiùshi kāi wánxiào de nèige zì, háishì…? 那这个就是开玩笑的那个字,还是…? Then is this just a joke character, or…?
LY Tā yě shì Shǎnxīrén dōu rènshi de zì, a. Tā shì — tā dāngdìrén zào de ne. 它也是陕西人都认识的字啊。它是——它当地人造的呢。 It’s a character that Shaanxi people all know. It’s — it’s something the locals made up.
SYZ Nà dàodǐ shì shénme miàn, shì tèbié kuān – 那到底是什么面,是特别宽—— So what kind of noodles are they, really, are they really wide –
LY Jiùshi miàntiáor, dànshì nèi miàntiáor kuān, nèi miàntiáor tèbié kuān, tǐng cháng. 就是面条儿,但是那面条儿宽,那面条儿特别宽,挺长。 They’re just noodles, but the noodles are wide, really wide and quite long.
Ránhòu ne, tā zhè zhǔle yíhòu ne, jiùshi ná — zhálàjiāoyóu 然后呢,他这煮了以后呢,就是拿——炸辣椒油 Then, after he (i.e. someone) boils them he just takes — fried chili oil
wǎngshàng yì pō, tā zème chī. 往上一泼,他这么吃。 and sprinkles it on, that’s how he eats it.
Jiùshi Shǎnxīrén de Shǎnxī tèdiǎn, gēn nèige shénme? Ròujiāmó, zhájiàngmiàn, guāntāngbāor, yángròupào. 就是山陕西人的陕西特点,跟那个什么?肉夹馍,炸酱面,灌汤包,羊肉泡。 It’s one of the Shaanxi people’s Shaanxi specialties, like the pulled pork sandwich [etc. for other names -- otherwise I'll botch the translations].

Talk about the common people taking back their writing system! “We’ll invent one so topsy-turvy that even the Unicode people won’t make a place for it.” The ironic appeal of Biang is that it’s far better known than thousands of “standard” characters that are included with your fonts. And its beauty is especially poignant because it violates Mandarin’s phonemic norms, which would normally allow no such sound as “biang.”

How does it taste? You would have to ask. In a moment of callous disloyalty, the tourist turncoats who snapped this photo left behind the faithful Biang and its scrubby-looking restaurateur to pay our respects to ròujiāmó (肉夹馍)…

roujiamo

…another local specialty, as LY mentioned above. Tasty. Like a pulled-pork sandwich without the sauce but with better bread. Worth leaving Beijing for? Probably not by itself. The editor will have to amass the evidence in the Tourism series before making such a weighty decision.

—————

*Nitpickers may note that some consider the Forbidden City, and perhaps even bits of the Great Wall, to be within the boundaries of greater Beijing. But as the studio director commented after what was his second-in-ten-years trips to both places: “Thank God they’re not within any part of Beijing I’m familiar with.”

**The scientific accuracy of the Hanzi Pronunciation Rules (HPR) has not been validated by independent research and is thus NOT subject to the usual money back guarantee applicable to Beijing Sounds subscriber fees as detailed in the Constitution.

¹ The proposal here is that YU and LY’s direct echoes of zhàoxiàng (照相 = take a picture) constitute speech acts as discussed in other posts. They don’t literally say “okay” and “go ahead,” but these are the kinds of phrases that a native AmE speaker would use in the same situation. Therefore, to native ears it doesn’t sound at all repetitive or unusual when they say zhàoxiàng in Mandarin, whereas if they both said “take a picture” in English they might be given a loony look.

² First, don’t ask why the footer numbering is out of order — lazy junior editors! Second, what’s up with the anti-Pinyin spelling of Shaanxi?! No, it’s not some abhorent dropping of a disambiguating apostrophe; rather it’s the sordid tale of diacritic lethargy and the struggle to differentiate Shǎnxī (陕西) from neighboring Shānxī (山西) province in romanized texts. It’s told well by Wikipedia. Maybe we can inspire Pinyin.info to do a position paper on it someday.

And for good measure: a coupla links if you want to know more about Biang than the practically nothing you’ve been given here.

  • http://blog.sina.com.cn/s/blog_4e11923701000cz4.html
  • http://www.scufz.org/article.aspx?id=2264

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Comments 4

  1. Kellen Parker wrote:

    is the roujiamo really not common in beijing? i’ve just relocated to shanghai, where my friends tell me they have some trouble finding it, but back in changzhou, not one hour west on the train, they’re readily available. i’d hate to think changzhou is doing better than both shanghai and beijing in any sort of culinary manner.

    back on topic, i remember reading about biang biang noodles a while back as i was wasting time by trying to find the most complex character ever created. i must say as a designer that it’s by far one of the least aesthetically pleasing ones i’ve ever seen.

    Posted 02 Sep 2009 at 11:48 am
  2. Pinyin.Info wrote:

    I’ve already ranted about Shanxi, er, Shaanxi. But that’s one of the many pages on my site that, for some mysterious reason, Google doesn’t index.

    Posted 03 Sep 2009 at 3:18 pm
  3. Randy Alexander wrote:

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Biang_Biang_Noodles

    I see there is a traditional character version as well. And WP has it as biáng. The mnemonic they give is interesting too.

    Posted 04 Sep 2009 at 2:27 am
  4. syz wrote:

    After reading the comments, I’ve got to say that this was hopelessly under-researched. Heads are going to fly and careers are going to be destroyed here at the studios.

    @Pinyin.info — your article is a great exposition on Shaanxi and I’m embarrassed to say that I hadn’t even checked on your site, so I can’t blame Google for not indexing. Regarding Pinyin dabblers’ persistent inability to use diacritics, even where they’re desperately needed, can’t you just hear YR Chao chuckling about the virtues of his system? Sure you don’t want to change to gwoyeuromatzyh.info?

    @Kellen, there’s probably plenty of roujiamo in Beijing. The problem goes back to the YU kitchen, which is so consistently piled with tasty fare that I rarely get to peruse the small eateries that would be sure to have it.

    @Randy — and even more embarrassing, I hadn’t even considered that Wikipedia would have an entry. I’m curious about its assertion without comment that the pronunciation is biang2. As I noted in the recording above, YU pretty clearly used tone 1 — and she lived in the area for 10 years. PBS made it tone 4, but that doesn’t count for much since I doubt she’d ever heard it before. Should have recorded more…

    Posted 04 Sep 2009 at 11:38 am

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